What is the Skin Barrier, and Why is it Important?
The skin barrier is a critical function of the skin, taking the form of the ultra-thin, uppermost layer of the skin called the Stratum corneum (SC). It functions as a physical barrier to keep harmful things, like pollutants and toxins, and microorganisms and viruses, from entering our bodies, and prevents good things, most importantly water, from leaving. Therefore, a well-functioning barrier is not only critical to the health of our skin but also to our general health.
What Does a Damaged Skin Barrier Look Like?
Early signs of barrier damage are dull looking skin, followed by visible white lines, flaking skin, and mild erythema (redness). These visible changes are often accompanied by itching and tight feeling skin. Advanced barrier damage can result in cracking or even bleeding, painful skin. If these symptoms sound similar to those of dry skin that is no coincidence because barrier damage is the essential underlying cause of dry skin.
What Other Skin Conditions Can Be Caused by a Damaged Barrier?
Because the barrier protects the skin from irritant chemicals and microorganisms, a damaged barrier can quickly lead to irritated, inflamed skin. The condition of the skin barrier and skin irritation are intimately related because skin irritation also negatively affects the barrier function, which can cause a vicious cycle wherein the barrier damage causes irritation, which causes more barrier damage, causing more irritation, etc.
A damaged barrier can also lead to breakouts as shed skin flakes can clog up pores, which is a critical step in the formation of pimples and blemishes.
How to Restore Skin Barrier: 4 Effective Steps
There are four critical parts to repairing a compromised barrier, all of which should be combined in a well-designed skincare regimen or moisturizer:
- Hydrate
The ironic aspect of the skin barrier is that while its function is to limit water loss from the skin, water is also essential to the functioning of the barrier. Therefore, hydrating the skin is an essential step to barrier recovery. Although most skin products contain water, those water molecules are not absorbed by the skin but tend to evaporate within seconds of applying the product. Rather, hydration is achieved by using ingredients called humectants. Humectants like Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid, once absorbed by the skin, have the ability to attract water molecules from the atmospheres and hold on to them to minimize further water loss. - Occlude
Occlusives are molecules that are able to form a layer on top of the skin that effectively seals in moisture by preventing water from evaporating. It’s like a temporary barrier on top of your real barrier that takes over its duties and gives it a chance to heal. Traditional occlusives like Petrolatum and Mineral Oil are used less and less because of their greasy skin feel and environmental concerns. They also tend to clog up pores making them unsuitable for acne prone skin. Modern alternatives like Squalane, plant-based Esters and Silicones provide a superior balance between performance, skin aesthetics, and environmental profile, while being suitable for a wide range of skin types. - Replenish
Lipids are a type of molecule that are an essential part of the skin barrier. They tend to have long “tails” that like oil and a smaller “head” that prefers to be closer to water molecules. This special property allows them to organize in layers that “seal in” the water molecules in the Stratum Corneum to maintain hydration and keep the barrier functional. Skin barrier lipids include Ceramides, Cholesterol, and Fatty Acids. Your skin produces these molecules naturally, but that ability slows down as we age, which is one of the reasons why the skin barrier function declines. Harsh cleansers in skincare and household products can also strip away the lipids from your skin and cause damage to the barrier. Luckily, lipids can be incorporated into moisturizers to replenish lost lipids to maintain/restore barrier function. - Soothe
Regardless of whether skin irritation is the underlying cause or a consequence of barrier damage (it can be both), soothing irritated skin is an important part of preventing or strengthening the barrier, particularly if you have sensitive skin. You can find proven soothing agents in many products, including Colloidal Oatmeal, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), and Bisabolol.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Repairing Your Skin Barrier
Avoid aggressive cleansing and exfoliation
Keeping your skin clean is important but overdoing it can have a detrimental effect on your skin barrier. This is because the surfactants (cleansing molecules) used in wash-off products can strip away essential lipids from your barrier causing increased water loss. Therefore, make sure to pick a mild facial cleanser free from harsh surfactants. Stay away from high-foaming cleansers that leave your skin feeling tight as they tend to be the harshest. Also, avoid using implements or powered devices as the mechanical abrasion can cause further damage to the barrier.
Exfoliation can help remove accumulated dead skin cells and flakes, but it is important to understand that it is just a temporary fix that does not address the underlying barrier damage. On the contrary, aggressive exfoliation can easily make things worse through its abrasive action. If you must exfoliate, be sure to use a gentle exfoliator and limit to one or two times a week.
Avoid and protect against environmental stress factors
While it is not practical to entirely avoid exposure to the environmental factors that can damage the skin barrier, it is important to understand what they are so you can take measures to protect your skin.
UV exposure, even at lower levels that do not cause a sunburn, causes the formation of free radicals that can cause damage to essential barrier proteins and lipids. So, when you do go out in the sun always wear an SPF of at least 30 and make sure to reapply every two hours. Your barrier will thank you.
The main threat to your barrier however is being in dry places for prolonged periods. That includes hot and dry climates, any cold climate, but also air-conditioned environments. Exposure to urban pollution and heavy winds can exacerbate things through chemical and abrasive action. Applying a high-quality moisturizer formulated according to the four principles presented above will protect your barrier against these environmental factors.
How Long Does It Take to Repair Skin Barrier?
A high-quality moisturizer can provide immediate and temporary relief from the symptoms of dry skin, such as itchiness and a dull, flaky appearance. However, it is important to understand that this is merely a superficial and transient effect. Stop using the moisturizer, and those symptoms will quickly return. Fundamentally improving the barrier function requires using a moisturizer every day at least once as part of your skincare regimen. Improvements can be expected in a matter of days. A lesser know fact about the skin barrier is that it completely renews itself every 4 weeks or so, meaning that a complete restoration of the barrier should take at least that long.
Senior Director for Innovation and Formulation at Rodan + Fields
